Bayfield is a community of almost 700 on the northernmost "feather" of the Wisconsin "Indian" projecting out into fierce Lake Superior and looking to Michigan's Upper Peninsula, Minnesota and Ontario.

A few blocks from this formidable body of water is a small white "steamboat Gothic" church with lacy rosettes and red doors, typical English parish windows and woodwork - and a concert program to turn many big-city cathedrals green with envy. From the spring Blessing of the Fleet to fall's Apple Festival, Christ Church hosts chamber concerts of Bach, Handel and Vivaldi that pack the house. Receptions are held in the "summer parish hall," the lawn.

The Rt. Rev. William Wantland, Bishop of Eau Claire, said the church was closed for years. The predecessor to the present vicar had conducted services in the summer (when the population swells to 20,000). Now it is open all year with a full sung Mass every Sunday.

Senior warden Esther Thayer lives in nearby Ashland year round. Dorothy Merchant, with her husband Bill a summer resident for 26 years, speaks of the church with great affection from her winter home in Florida. "Fr. (Douglas) Culver took Christ Church under his wing in the summers," Ms. Merchant said.

"He was rector in Ashland; he came as a volunteer when he retired," Ms. Thayer said. "He and his wife were dedicated."

Ms. Merchant continued, "When Fr. Michno came, he said, 'We'll never have a congregation if we're not open in the winter.' He only missed one Sunday last year."

The Rev. Dennis Michno is a Juilliard graduate in organ, piano and harpsichord who has served as music director of a Brooklyn synagogue, rector of a Manhattan parish, and assistant to the precentor at an English cathedral. When he was forced by multiple sclerosis to retire from his Massachusetts parish, he said in a newspaper interview that he just stopped playing. "After six or seven weeks," he's quoted, "I was going silly. My brain was starting to shrink." In looking for a place where he could serve musically and clerically, he contacted Bishop Wantland. "He said, 'I've been waiting for you to call'."

Bishop Wantland sent him to see Christ Church, built in 1870, the oldest Episcopal church in northern Wisconsin. "It was December; it was gray and cold, the church was in cobwebs." In February, 1996, he became vicar.

One of Fr. Michno's concerns is to do away with the "rich people's church" image. Christ Church participates with Bayfield's other four churches in an ecumenical Thanksgiving eve service. Last year's was at Christ Church; this year's at the Lutheran church, with Fr. Michno as music director. A choir of around 20 performed Vivaldi, Rutter, Bach and Hobson. Many fine musicians live in the area. "I've dragged them out of the woods," Fr. Michno said.

The summer concerts will begin again next year with the Blessing of the Fleet, a tradition Fr. Michno knew well from Provincetown but nearly lost along Chequamegon Bay. "We had 43 boats, all kinds, not just fishing boats."

The 1997 summer series celebrated the 200th birthday of Franz Schubert (but opened with the vicar's favorite Bach) with an hour of chamber music each Thursday at 5 p.m. There were Schubert lieder, a song cycle for tenor, and works including clarinet, flute or horn, and piano. Fr. Michno plays as often as possible "until I can't anymore," until the MS stops him. Esther Thayer said, "He plays so beautifully I could just cry."

He is planning next summer's season, "a potpourri of Schumann, Mozart, Beethoven." This spring the musicians will take the concerts-in-rehearsal into the schools. Young people attend concerts with parents and grandparents, and an eighth-grade flautist joined the Thanksgiving ensemble. Fr. Michno's harpsichord sometimes comes to the church from his home, and Dorothy Merchant, acolyte, sometimes "ducked around the Steinway for services. It was fun." The concerts fill the church, with listeners standing outside, even in rain. "Some people say they've always wanted to get in to see this old church." Each concert ends with a hymn. "The music is found on ... the insert. You are invited to sing in parts," the program reads.

This summer Christ Church consecrated its shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham. The altar and frame were constructed from the back two pews. The icon was painted by Pennsylvania artist Christine Pohuly. It "is unique in that 15 medallions surround the seated figure of Our Lady and the Christ Child," the description reads. "Included ... are the wolf, the bear, the deer and other animals common to the area. Berries and other symbols depict the unique life of Bayfield ... the fishing boat, providing a livelihood ... reminds us of God the Father ... the fish is an ancient symbol of Our Lord Jesus Christ. The Crane - Ajijaak - seldom speaking, always wise, symbolizes God the Holy Spirit."

Talking to Fr. Michno, one sees fascinating glimpses into life "Up North." "Some of my parishioners live on Madeline Island, about three miles out," he said. "In winter they drive to church." The highway across frozen Lake Superior is marked by Christmas trees.

Christ Church, Bayfield, and Fr. Michno found each other. Ms. Merchant said, "It's added a great deal to the community to have these concerts. People come from a distance to hear them. He's tapped into the musical people in the area. He was in town just six months and he found them." Fr. Michno said even though the MS is affecting his vision and his stamina, the low level of stress as well as the cool climate are beneficial. And he loves the beauty around him, and the small-town lifestyle. "In New York or Boston I couldn't know everyone [like I do here]. I have this little congregation. I need them and they need me." o